Madrid & Tinkertown

We were pretty well relaxed by the end of Thursday night, lemme tell ya.  All day in and out of a hot soak pool, firepit, cucumber/lemon water for sipping, sage aromatherapy shower soap, stars popping out, bats flying by, soothing music, good conversation with a loving partner, Heaven, I say, Heaven.  We were definitely well rested when 6:30 Friday morning rolled around.  It was our goal to get packed up and on the road by 8:30 am, so it was imperative that we get a good sleep.

Why so early, you're asking?  Well, to answer that, I have to go back a couple of days, and explain that the lady square dance caller we met, Lisa, and her husband, Tom, actually also own and run a campground on the outskirts of Santa Fe, Rancheros de Santa Fe.  We took a drive one day, to go out and see the grounds and see if it would be some place we might want to Workamp in the future, or maybe just return to stay in for a while.  The campground was located just north of Santa Fe, and right off Old Route 66.  It backed up to a mountain and a canyon, and Clint Eastwood's "Every Which Way But Loose" had some parts that were filmed out by site 20.  It's also right by the Santa Fe Trail, so there's plenty of history and things to see and do in the area.  The grounds are rustic, with lots of pinon and juniper trees still on site.  The roads are mostly gravel, and they pride themselves on their natural setting, as well as spectacular sunsets.  The pool was clean, and there was a pretty well stocked store.  Traffic noise was minimal and we were told there was free and fast WiFi.  They have 3 Workamper couples and the manager that all plan to return, so they must be pretty good to work for.  There was only one little problem.....we are still 44 feet long, plus the toad!  And we STILL don't bend in the middle!  We couldn't find a site that would hold us, and the interior roads were a bit too narrow with too many sharp turns for us to easily negotiate.  I guess if we want to work next summer, we're going to have to look for another park to accommodate us.  What's that got to do with why we needed to get going so early??  Get to the point already!!

So, we had reservations to stay in Tijeras, NM, about 20 miles east of Albuquerque, for 4 days, at a campground called Hidden Valley Mountain Park, right off I-40.  We knew it was surrounded by mountains, had no TV reception and no cell phone service.  We also know there wasn't a whole lot to the town of Tijeras, so, Thursday, while we were relaxing in the pool, we began to have reservations....of a different kind.  We were concerned that we would be jumping from the frying pan to the fire, and the sites might be similar to Tom & Lisa's.  Nice, but smaller and more rustic than we bargained for.  Kirtland Air Force Base is right in Albuquerque, the price was comparable, and they offered free WiFi, over the air TV and good cell phone coverage.  Plus, it has the advantage of being on base, and close to all the sights we wanted to see in Albuquerque.  AND, it's big-rig friendly.  There's only one catch - they don't take reservations!  Soooo, if there's a site available when you drive up, you're in.  If not, there's a field in which you can dry camp until you're ready to move on or a site becomes available.  When we arrived at 11 am, there were several sites available and we were in like Flynn.    On the way down, we were treated to some flat land and good roads,with little traffic, yay!!

Once we got set up, the real work started.  First thing, we cancelled our other reservation so we weren't double booked.  After we split a PBJ, we got our stuff together and puppy got a much-needed bath.  Oh my gosh, you should have seen the dirt roll off of her!  When we were done, she had white feet again and was soft, soft, soft. And frisky!  I know she felt better; she sure smelled better!!  Then we started in on the coach.  It had been a couple of months since it was last washed, and it was every bit as dirty as the dog!  Just bigger.  MUUUUCH bigger!  When we got done with it, the tow dolly looked shabby, so it got washed too.  Well, now the CAR looked shabby, so we started on it!  Got half of one side done, and our neighbor came home.  We assume, from work.  We also assumed he was taking a shower, as we lost all our water pressure.  Whaaa???  I got the bright idea of testing the vacant site's water, and it was almost a trickle, too, and just about then, the hosts came flying by on a golf cart and let us know they had turned off the water for a short time.  Well, now wasn't THAT a fine kettle of fish.  By now, it was quarter to 5, and we were getting pretty darned tired, as well as sore.  We thought some limeade would be good, especially if we put some tequila in it, but....we don't have a pitcher on board.  Ahhh, but you know what?  The Base Exchange probably had one for sale....so we hopped in our half-clean car and boogied on down to the BX and bought one!  By the time we got back to the camper, the water had been turned back on and we could finish washing the car.  Then, Driver hopped up on the stepladder and started the prep for repairing the windshield chip we picked up in transit from Colorado to New Mexico.  What a day!  Nothing like the day before!!  Too bad we don't have a hot spring down here, 'cuz we both could sure use a good soak!

When were were in Madrid, on Wednesday, you know we tried to get into the Mining Museum, but it was closed.  We vowed then to try to come back on Saturday, when they were open and see what we could learn about the town history.  So, puppy all suited up, and off we went!  Back towards Santa Fe, but this time, on the scenic route.

Check out the cattle crossing sign!

As we got closer to town, we got higher, too. NO, not on weed.  Altitude!

 So, I gave you a little history of the town yesterday, right?  Remember the mine?  Here's a shot of the 6 story mine entrance.

I *think* this was Mr. Huber's car....no longer running, obviously.

 This is a battery bank - one of Thomas Edison's inventions.  This is what recharged the miners' headlamps.  Pretty important, as some of the mine's tunnels went 5 miles into the mountain.

Outside, was Engine 769, a Santa Fe Consolidated 2-8-0 short haul freighter, built in 1900 by the Richmond Locomotive Works, of Richmond, VA.  It is one of only a thousand Richmonds built.  It hauled coal 3 miles north to Waldo, and returned with potable water for the town's citizens.  It was purchased by the Coal Company in 1940 and faithfully served until 1960, when it was officially retired.  It is currently one of the most complete non-operable locomotives in the country.

We were permitted to step into the engine compartment and even pull the chain that rang the bell.  IT pealed loud and clear!  And it took some muscle to make it ring!

The engine house was originally used only for shelter while making repairs, but now it is used as a little theatre.

On the return trip home, we got to watch a storm crawl over the mountain.  While we were chatting with Claire, up at the museum, she mentioned that we would probably enjoy Tinkertown.  Neither of us knew what was so special about the place, but, heck, we had nothing but time on our hands, so off we went.  There was no cell phone reception up in Madrid, so that meant no GPS either, but we knew the location of the town was south.  Good enough!

We got almost all the way back to Albuquerque before I noticed we had a cell signal again.  I real quick Googled Tinkertown, and surprise!  We needed to make a right turn in only .5 miles!  That was close!  We made the turn, and traveled only a mile before we saw the sign for Tinkertown on the left.  Apparently, Tinkertown is not a whole, real town.   That was not our only surprise!  We stepped out of the car, and boy, was it COLD!  And there were funny white patches on the ground.  Dick thought maybe it was caliche, or maybe lichen.  I didn't think so, as the patches appeared to be made up of little round white pebbles.  Neither caliche nor lichen is structured like that.  

I picked up a little, and not only was it COLD, it was WET!  It was HAIL!!  We hadn't seen hail, or anything like it in YEARS!  Sure makes me glad I carry a warm shawl in the car!  When we set out in the morning, it was WARM!

So, here we are arriving at Tinkertown.  Its walls are made of cement and bottles.  Thousands and thousands of bottles (over 50 thousand!)! Telephone insulators line the rooftop edges.  Did you check out that link I gave you above?  Go ahead & pop over there, you won't be sorry!  Here, I'll make it real easy for you...click HERE.

All the doors were different, but they all looked suitable for Hobbits and elves.

When we paid our admission, which was only $3 each, for geezers (!), they returned our change in quarters.  We wondered why, but as we wandered through the museum, we found several old machines that would accept a quarter and perform for us.  The animations were all hand carved by Ross, as a hobby, over the course of 40 years, up till the time his dementia got too bad.  Check out a couple of the displays below.  Just, make sure your sound is turned on.  

This is Grandmother Fortune Teller, made in New York in 1940.  Many years later, she was auctioned off and became an attraction with Cliff Wilson's Traveling Arcades, in Tulsa, OK.  She was  brought to Tinkertown in 1981 by the Ward family, restored and renamed Esmerelda. She took my quarter and presented me a fortune card that was surprisingly accurate!  It read, "A trip around the world is in store for you.  With it a great deal of happiness too.  You will have unlimited money (OK, that part, maybe not so accurate) And life for you will be very sunny."  Three out of four is good enough for me!

 In a barn outside, was his brother-in-law's sailboat that he took around the world.  Took him and his wife 10 years, but they did it.  They started on the east coast of Florida, went across the Atlantic to Europe, then down to Australia, then to Africa, South America, and back up to Florida.  Along the walls were showcases containing lots of souvenirs and artifacts he collected during his travels.

Back inside, we found this beautiful stained glass.  There were several scattered throughout the home, but this was the largest, and I think, the prettiest.

 There was also a hand-carved one man band calliope.  He took TWO quarters, 'cuz that new phone, ya know...it didn't record the first time I played it. As I write this, my video is still in the process of uploading, and it tells me I have another 2 hours to go.  Maybe more, maybe less.  Soooo, if you want to check it out (and it's worth the wait!), go hit up my YouTube Channel (kcallander989) later, and view the One Man Band Calliope clip that will be there.  Eventually.  

Here's a peep into his studio.

Remember, I mentioned his dementia?  He was diagnosed at age 57, and this car was his wife's bright idea.  As Mr. Ward's Alzheimer's symptoms made it unsafe for him to drive, Carla suggested that he start a new project, using the car as a base.  Before long, he couldn't bear to think of driving the car because it was so artful.  It was completed during 1997 to 1999.  Ross used to say, "I'm trying to turn this Jeep into a Lincoln."  Can you see why?  May have to click to make that photo larger, but it's got hundreds of pennies affixed to it.  So different, yet so similar to the Cadillac Ranch cars, right?

This is a Medicine Show Wagon he built on a Studebaker wagon frame in 1954.  (that makes it older than me!!)  It was built for the same company that had Esmerelda, Cliff's Amusement Park, in Albequerque.  It was originally used as a puppet theater.  It seemed such a shame that it was out in the weather, losing its shine year by year.

And flanking the gate to the private residence, were two coal buckets.  This one was from the Victor, CO mine, and the notation says it weighs 500 pounds empty!  As we learned from the Museum of Mining & Industry, in Colorado Springs, the miners (4 of 'em!) were lowered down into the mine by standing on the rim of the buckets, and the coal was hauled back up and out, IN the bucket.  Sadly, Ross passed away at age 62, in November 2002.

Not sure what's gonna happen next, but buckle up, the ride promises to be exciting!

Wednesday, Thursday, Spas & Alpacas

What happened Wednesday and Thursday?  Well, we had heard that Madrid, a town of only 225 (mostly hippies, artists and misfits now) was about 40 minutes down the road.  Who doesn't want to see a ghost town revitalized and full of hippies, artists and misfits?  Count us in!  Saddle up, Bailey, let's go!

This is New Mexico's version of Garden of the Gods on the Turquoise Trail (NM 14, the highway between Tijeras and Santa Fe, is called the Turquoise Trail).  See that tiny sign on the left?  That tells me so.  Also tells me it's Private Property, and the barbed wire fence tells me we must not trespass.

 After a while, we found the town of Madrid, NM, artist and hippie haven.  There is evidence of coal mining as early as mid-1850's and by 1892, production in "Coal Gulch" was sufficient to warrant a 6.5 mile standard gauge rail road to connect the area to Santa Fe.  By 1919, the town of Madrid was flourishing and population was about 2500, with a Chrysler dealer, a hospital (and the first X-Ray machine in New Mexico), a church, a grocery store, elementary and high schools, a LIGHTED ballfield (the first in the country), and an employee club.  It was a model "Company Town" under the leadership of Oscar Huber.  Homes for the miners and their families were dismantled in Kansas and brought to the town in halves & reassembled on site.  The townspeople were paid in script, spendable at the Company Store & Mercantile, and they were required to participate in the town events, like the Fourth of July and Christmas parades, as well as dye Easter eggs for the children to find down at the ballfield on Easter morning.  The Christmas light display was such a sight that TWA was known to have diverted flights just so their passengers could enjoy the sights as they flew over the town.  Walt Disney even came to visit and asked Mr. Hubert if he could set up Toyland as a permanent exhibition in the town, but, unfortunately, Mr. Hubert declined.  Mr. Disney went back to California and built Disneyland instead.  Whoops.  Most of the coal mined went to Los Alamos, to the north, for the Manhattan Project, that produced the first nuclear weapons.  However, the Christmas parade and displays ended with WWII, and the mines closed at the end of the war, when natural gas began to supplant coal.  Most of the miners just packed what they could into their cars and drove off, to find other opportunities.  The town was left with only 12 residents, including Mr. Huber and his family and pretty much turned into a real live ghost town.  Ghosts included.  

In the 70's, Oscar's son, Joe, put the town up for sale, but there were no takers, so he offered the church and individual houses for rent and sale, dirt cheap.  That's where the hippies and artists came in....neither group had much money, and houses for $1000 or less were very attractive and affordable.  Mind you, nothing in the town worked, nor did most of its new inhabitants.  The well water was so bad, it was only pumped into the houses twice a week.  Houses were ramshackle and falling down, and there were no Home Depots, so they had to be patched up and repaired with and by whatever means the new residents had available at the time.  Some of the homes still show the seams, where they were put back together originally.  Today, the population stands at about 225, and there is very little "industry" in town.  Most of the homes have been turned into artist shops, studios, eateries or in one case, a general store, featuring old time candy.  This was the first set of shops we came across.

 Can you see the price tag on that little cactus?  I'll spare you the trouble....$125.  

 How about this little glass cat?  He stood about 4 feet high.  He was marked at $400.  Did you want one?  Oh, sorry, we didn't know, so we left him there, along with his brothers and sisters, priced the same.

 This is one of the local ladies....she's been in Madrid since the 80's, so she's about as close as they come to a Madridian.  She was showing us how the turquoise shell ornaments are made.  She was quite the character.  No computer, barely a phone, and cigarette breath to kill a moose.

One of the shops was housed in Mr. Huber's original house, the only house that was built on site, not brought in and reassembled.  The locals refer to it as the Huber Mansion, even though, by today's standards, it's not a mansion by any means.  Thomas Edison took an early interest in the town, as he was already engaged in iron ore mining and processing in the east.  He made the long journey from Menlo Park, NJ, to the Madrid, to try his hand at recovering gold from the Ortiz mountains.  (Barbara S - the Resident Engineer would find this process extremely interesting, so have him check out that link!)  Anyway, because of the plentiful and inexpensive power supplied by the coal being mined, Madrid became one of the first cities in the country to have lots of indoor lighting.  You can see evidence of the early wiring and lighting up near the ceiling of Mr. Huber's office.

This is how his office looks today.  Most of the pieces are original and his own possessions.  Excluding that display case in the middle of the room, of course.

This is Mr. Huber's front porch.  We (pup and I) sat here a bit and enjoyed quite the breeze. The tree to the left is a crabapple, and it was loaded!!  The tree on the right is a redbud, which is actually quite uncommon for the area, and the shopkeeper was amazed that I could identify the tree simply by its leaves.

See, by today's standards, it's not exactly a mansion, but compared to the employees' shacks, it's a mansion.

 This is more typical of the miners' homes.  Small, quaint, and wildly painted. 

We journeyed on to Cerillos, where a lot of the turquoise was, and still is, mined.  Apparently, it's getting more and more scarce, and the farther away from Madrid and Cerillos you get, the more expensive it will become, we've been warned.  It runs about $9 a carat here, and a carat is pretty small, so a slice, about an eighth of an inch thick (THIN) and about a half an inch long, ran about $22.  There was a mining museum in Cerrillos, but we were told Bailey could only come in if I carried her...and after about 5 minutes, I couldn't carry her any longer, so I had to carry her right on outside.  Driver was right on my heels, so we left after viewing the "petting zoo" animals, a llama, some chickens and some goats, all of whom couldn't care less that we were there.  As we drove around the little town, we came across an elderly gentleman, struggling to hang a birdfeeder.  Yes, we stopped, right in the middle of the road, and Driver gave him a hand.  The homeowner was a bit shocked, but I think, grateful, for the assistance.

 This type of cedar fencing seems to be pretty popular in the area.  I guess it's because cedar is so commonplace.  I dunno, but it always seems to look pretty ramshackle and run down to me.  I think if they would only cut the tops off even, maybe it would look neater???  But, then again, judgment in mine, sayeth the Lord, right???

 Here's a little town history; you can see, they were a boom town in the 1880's and 90's.  Not so much now!

 This home had a quite an interesting wall around it.  Wonder what was hiding behind the wall???

Fast forward, now, to Thursday.  We had heard there were hot springs and mineral springs in the area.  The hot springs were about an hour's journey north of town, and they offered 50 minutes, in any of their springs for $45.  Once your 50 minutes was up, you were done and you went on your merry way.  The mineral springs, just outside Santa Fe, on the other hand, are owned by the same company, but set up a little differently.  There's a pond, which you cannot swim in, and a set of  four different "Repose Pools," each a slightly different temperature, ranging from 72 degrees, straight out of the spring, to about 102 degrees.  This facility offered all-day (10 am to 10 pm) soaking for $60/couple, and was only about 20 minutes from the campground.  We chose to visit Sunrise Springs for the convenience and the fact that we weren't far from home and could come back to walk the dog easily.

There are also private rooms you can book for overnight stays, a spa, offering massages, manicures, pedicures and facials, and a highly patronized restaurant.  This is the al fresco dining area, at 10 am.

When we left, around noon, every chair was filled.  When we returned, around 4 pm, again, every chair was filled.  

   

This was one of the Repose Pools, overlooking the pond.  There was a nice firepit, too, and it was lit and warm, when we returned after dinner.  It provided a soothing ambiance, as well as some much needed warmth after we left the hot pool.  Yeah, no surprise there, we stayed in the hot pool, day and night!  I must admit, it was soothing and relaxing, and it's a darned good thing we saved the spa for our last day/night, otherwise, we might not have seen or done anything else while we were in Santa Fe!

On our way back to the camper, after our morning soak, we stopped in at Blue Mesa Alpaca Ranch.  It was originally a scheduled Harvest Host stopover for us, but we decided with the weather being so warm, we might not be able to go without electricity and air conditioning, so we called to cancel.  Turns out, the ranch's zoning has been changed to residential (???), so they were no longer permitted to have overnight guests.  The rusty colored, fluffy baby, on the very right, is Alecia.  She's about 3 months old, and she was about 10 pounds when she was born.  The little hairy guy, laying down in front, on the left, is Chewbaca, and he was born only 3 weeks ago, weighing in at 17 pounds at birth!  He spent most of our visit just lying there, soaking up the sunshine.

On our way back to the spa, after dinner, we were treated to a beautiful sunset and moonrise. The two pictures below were taken within seconds of each other.  The first is looking west, toward the setting sun; the second photo is looking east, toward the rising moon.  Striking, eh?

Next up is Friday, our travel day.  I can't wait to tell you all about it, but it's now 5 minutes till midnight, and we still have to walk the dog one last time, so I guess you'll have to wait!!  Till next time!