Monday, September 30, 2019

Location, Location, Location! Montezuma Castle and Well and More Petroglyphs

Well, that's what the sign said anyway, it's all about location.  Water, plant and animal resources and farmland were all nearby.  As a result, this was deemed an ideal place to settle and build homes a hundred feet up, under the limestone ledges in the cliffs of the Verde Valley.  




 Just so ya know, Montezuma had absolutely nothing to do with this "castle" nor they now think he even knew about it.  Montezuma was an Aztec, and lived many years after this Pueblo was occupied and deserted.  It's just that then-current thinkers associated all Native structures with Aztec life, so it was named after him.





Arizona Sycamores are the strongest wood around - stronger than oak and hickory even.  The supporting beams inside the structure are over 700 years old and still doing their job.



There used to be sycamore ladders leading up to the tower and doorways, as well as a few inside, leading to the higher levels.  Used to be, visitors were permitted to walk all around inside, but increased traffic led to the site's degradation and destruction, so in 1955, all access was banned.


 Next up, just down the road, is Montezuma's Well.  Again, absolutely nothing to do with Montezuma, but the name stuck.  This is a limestone sink, created by ground water filtering through the ledge, many miles away, then hitting a horizontal and vertical basalt wall, that was impenetrable. Sooo, the water percolated back UP to the surface, here in this hole.  Even during times or drought, the water level doesn't change, proving that water is still bubbling INTO the sink.  During times of flood, the water level also doesn't change...that's because there are a couple of caves, over on the right, that act as an outlet for excess water.  NOOOO, we did NOT go down there and explore the caves, though there were steps and we were free to do so.  The Ranger at the Castle had asked us not to enter the caves, due to there being lots of guano (bat poop) and remains of humans still inside.  If I had been comfortable with the steps, that sage advise would have been enough to scare me off.  Don't worry, Mr. Ranger....we stayed up on top and out of trouble!  


There were pueblo remnants here, too, way high up on the cliff sides of the well.  I wondered how in the world they got into 'em....the walls did not divulge the answer to that question, but there was a poster that mentioned they carefully traversed the narrow ledges.  Yikes.





We followed the pathway down and around, to the outlet for the caves, where the overflow was released.  I thought I had taken a photo of the steps leading down to the creek.  Apparently, I didn't.  I did take several of my feet, though, I wonder if they were the resulting snaps.  In my defense, it's really difficult to see my polarized screen, especially when the sunlight is strong and/or I'm wearing my sunglasses.  Or the dog is pulling me, or I'm standing near the edge, or Driver is, or...you get the picture.  Or, more likely, you DON'T, sorry.




This is where the water is actually released. And, boy, was it flowing at a rapid rate!  I expected it to be ice cold, but it wasn't much cooler than the pool at the campground!



Two miles more over paved road, then another 1 over gravel, and we were at the Pit House ruins.  This appeared to be a communal room, formed with materials that were on hand at the time.  Today, only the floor with its holes remains.  The 2 large holes in the center likely held roof supports, and the door is directly across from me in the back wall.  The ruins are well covered, and the fragile dirt floor has had soil cement applied over it, so no more degradation should occur.



From there, we moved on down to the V Bar V ranch historic site....another immense rock wall full of petroglyphs.  So far, over 1000 have been identified, and the local Hopi clan has made an attempt to educate the Rangers on some of the symbolism and stories told by their ancestors. 


This is all that stands of the original ranch house - you can see the V Bar V brand that was built right into the corner chimney.


The people here were given the name Sinagua (Spanish, Sin (without) Agua (Water)), but no one really knows what they called themselves.  What is known, is that they considered the Well their source of origination, and they used part of the 3 mile long wall of rock as their calendar, to aid, not in telling time, but determining when to sow the corn and when to reap it.  




It's hard to tell here, but there is a vertical slab of rock (lighter colored, dead center) whose edge appears to be chiseled in such a way that the shadow cast is a PERFECT match for the profile of the San Francisco mountains, north of Flagstaff, and a couple hundred miles away.  Remember when we drove here from Winslow, and we saw S#$%W on Humphrey's Peak?  THAT was the San Francisco mountains.  The shadow cast below is hard to see, but the Ranger provided a photo of the moutains, side by side with a photo of the stone and its shadow, and it was as if a tracing had been made!  How DID they do that??



Off to the right, there is a break in the rock, that legend has it, is a portal for the spirits to return to the mountains and there is a large face-type petroglyph just to its left, that is said to be guardian of the portal.  On our way back to the car, this modern portal caught my eye...Can you just imagine yourself, sitting on the front porch, looking up at that moutainside, where so many years prior, a whole entire population lived and died, then simply vanished from the area?


So, today was another long, hard day, and again, we missed our PBJ lunch, so we were pretty hungry by the time we started back to the camper.  I had taken a couple of hamburgers out of the freezer, so dinner was planned, but it remained to be cooked.  I also wanted to stop in at Basha's (the local grocer) to replenish our fruit supply, so it was suggested that we could also pick up a bag of frozen french fries.  That sounded good, but I would still have to be cooking...and we had stopped in at Crusty's, the local pizza parlor earlier in the week, and we found out they used only mozzarella cheese......yup, you know where that went!  I went into the grocery store, picked up some strawberries and UTAH peaches (I'm promised they will be delicious!) and Driver went next door to order our pizza.  It was delivered, hot and fresh, taken home, and devoured in about 10 minutes!  No cooking involved, thank you kindly!  What's that?  What about the puppy?  Oh, don't you worry about her....oh no...SHE got her food around 4 pm, just a little later than normal.  I've taken to packing her a generous portioned snack and her bowl, along with water for us all, every day.  SHE eats, even when we're out on the roadside!

We got news tonight, that one of our dear friends and fellow square dancers had suffered a massive heart attack early Saturday morning and passed away as a result.  Gene, you will be sorely missed, by us, and a whole slew of others.  Kerry, we're so sorry for your loss, and we send you our deepest sympathies.  We sincerely hope you will continue traveling and visiting all your Florida friends and dancing when you can, in his honor.  I know he would want you to be brave and continue on.  We hope our paths will cross again, sooner than later.

What's up for tomorrow, Monday?  At this point, we don't really know.  There is still a salt mine, coincidentally enough, down Salt Mine Road, that bears investigation.  NO, we don't plan to return to Alcantara Vineyards; once down and back up that road was sufficient, thank you ever so much.  NO, we don't plan to return to Jerome; again, once up and down that road was quite sufficient, thank you ever so much.  In truth, we actually did consider returning to Jerome on Monday, when, hopefully, the crowds will be considerably less, but, well, there's that road....with sheer cliffs going up one side and down on the other....soooo, nah....we didn't really see anything up there that absolutely had to be seen up close and personal.  Maybe in another lifetime, but not this one!  Maybe we'll give the dog a bath- she could sure use one!  But then again, maybe not, since it is nothing but dirt and pea gravel in our current site.  Maybe that will wait until Tuesday, when we are on a better site and have more time.

Barbara S is on the road, traveling back to her home base, in Oregon, and Barbara & Charles A (and Molly) , as well as Gary & Gail, and Jennifer & Steve (and Bella!) should all be setting out for Florida real soon - y'all be careful and travel safe!  Star & Rich - I think you're heading to Georgia - I know you'll be seen by several of our friends there, y'all be safe too, and keep on making those dreams come true and spreading smiles & joy everywhere you go!

Sunday, September 29, 2019

Tuzigoot, Clarkdale & Jerome AZ

So, today's adventure was to the Tuzigoot National Monutment, another set of Pueblo ruins.  The site is only about 17 miles north of where we're staying, so we were there in no time.  Unfortunately, a tour bus arrived just as we did, and we didn't get out of the car in time to get in front of them.  Oh well, we have all the time in the world, right?  Plus, it really worked out, 'cuz the bus driver had the group collected in front of the Visitors' Center and was giving a little speech about some of the native plants they had planted around the front of the building.  Once we entered, we were pleasantly surprised by the volunteer telling us that today is one of the Fee Free Entrance days for all National Parks.  Today's reason was National Public Lands Day.  The next one will be November 11, Veterans Day.



Here's our favorite Driver, telling me he's gonna have to go on a diet to fit into his new Ranger uniform.  Hate to break the news, honey, but it's gonna take more than a new diet!



This Pueblo has about 100 rooms, most of which contained a hearth, indicating their use as living quarters.  Very few of the rooms appeared to be used as storage. 


Believe it or not, with the assistance of our trusty pup and Driver, I was able to climb up to the highest room and look out over the ruins.  Yeah, I was glad to get down right after I took the shot!





There really wasn't much else to see at this spot, so we got back in the car and continued on our journey, up to Jerome, via Old Town Clarkdale.  As it turns out, one of the top 10 things to do in Clarkdale is taking a ride on the Verde Valley Railroad.  We hadn't planned on riding the rails, but since it was in the station, and we heard the whistle, we thought maybe we'd stick around to video it leaving the depot.  So we drove up that side road, and we waited.  And waited.  After about 10 minutes, I thought, well, maybe 5 more, then it will be 11:30, and the train will leave.  It didn't.  Waited till 11:45 and it STILL didn't leave.  Waited till noon, and it STILL hadn't left, nor did it show any signs of intending to leave.  So, we grabbed a pretty red rock and WE left!  Turns out, it wasn't planning to leave until 1 pm, so I'm really glad we didn't keep waiting!


Even the flowers have to be pretty hardy to eke out a living in this rough country.


Clarkdale was the creation of Senator William Andres Clark, a billionaire investor.  He designed and built the town for his mine employees and, much like the town of Madrid, NM, it was ahead of its time, with underground utilities, sewers, paved streets and a community center.  He, too, built homes for his employees and provided them stores and supplies.  There were several sections of town, most notably, Patio Town, established in 1913, which was where the Mexican employees were housed.  We drove through it, and it's still very much inhabited today, but it's very much a place that does not show very well.  The homes are pretty run down, lots of 'em are in the condition you would expect after a hundred years - missing siding and roofs you can see through, no windows, you get the picture.  I didn't think the residents would appreciate my pictures of their homes; I didn't want to be disrespectful, so we just rode through and then went on to Jerome.  

We could see it up on the hill, off in the distance.  See that white J on the hillside?  The town is just to the left, nestled right into the hillside.  We weren't sure what exactly was up there, but we had been told it was the richest town in Arizona in its heyday due to the copper mine, and had even been considered for Capitol status prior to Phoenix.  We did NOT know that it had also been known as the wickedest town in Arizona, full of miners, gamblers, bootleggers and prostitutes.  But, as usual, when demand for copper slowed after the war, the mine shut down, and the people deserted the town, leaving it a true Ghost Town.  


We also did NOT know what kind of road lead to this here Ghost Town.


As we got closer, the road got higher.  And higher.  And windier.  And, did I mention, higher?


See that large building off to the right?  That's the Grand Hotel, which once served the residents of Jerome as the United Verde Hospital.  You know how we enjoy visiting old hotels, and exploring their artifacts on display?  And they usually have gardens and grounds to walk....well, it was right about here I mentioned that I didn't need to go all the way up there after all.  It's ok, I could just Google it and view everything from the comfort of our camper.  Well, HA.  There was only the one road.  And it was narrow.  And we had a loooooooong line of cars traveling behind us.  And there was NOwhere to pull over or turn around.  So, up we went!  And up, and up and up.



Once we actually got UP to the town, the road leveled out, but, geeze Louise, I thought Sedona traffic was bad...oh, my, this was MUCH worse.  See how all the cars are parked?  Yeah.  And the houses opened RIGHT onto the street.  As in, you step down off the porch, and you'd better watch out for the cars driving by only inches from your foot.



 This is where we had to go to the right, and the road became one-way.  The road circled around behind this angular building, and came back down on the left.  There was no parking up there either.



The Mile High Grill & Inn.  Yup, we're back up in the clouds!




We had seen this little garage on the way up, but we were past it before I could whip out the camera.  Got it, this time, on the way back down, but it wasn't till we were directly in front of it that I could see there was a SKELETON in the driver's seat!  That sort of answered the question, when did it come out last?  There was a sheer dropoff on my side of the car, so it wasn't like I was gonna ask Driver to pull over....there was NO pulling over!  It was also right about now when the motorcyclist that was following us decided it was time to pass us.  In a no-passing zone.  Just in front of a curve.  A blind curve.  And, heck yeah, in fact, there WAS a car coming.  And our friendly motorcyclist was NOT wearing a helmet.  Geesh.


Still working on getting down off that hill.  Intact would be nice, so we were going the speed limit, which, granted, was only about 25 mph, thank Goodness.



Those are the red rocks of Sedona, WAAAAY off in the distance.

When we got down to the Valley floor, I could breathe again, and we passed Arizona Botanical Gardens.  Well, we didn't really PASS it, we turned in to it.  What a pleasant diversion from the recent adventure up and down the hill and through the town of Jerome.





There were at least 4 bird's nests that were easily visible in this one, which was WELL over our heads.



Can you just imagine how beautiful this baby must have been when it was all in bloom?


Now, THESE pears are about ready for picking, plucking, mashing and jamming!



And finally, we were done.  Francis, the owner, let us know he'd been at it for right at 25 years, and the gardens were very well done & immaculate and showed just how hard he had worked over the years.  Most all the plants in the greenhouses were for sale, and I really did feel we should buy something, but, when Driver asked me which one did I want to kill, I re-thought that purchase.  And we really don't need any dust-collectors, so we went away empty handed.  Except for the little burr thing that SOMEone picked up in her tail.  You know it's pretty swishy, and sometimes it gathers things that don't exactly belong in our house.  

After touring the gardens, we stopped in at Home Depot, down in Cottonwood and picked up some clear coat for a project that I'll tell you about later.  When we got home, we put together a set of ramps for our ramps. You'll see!  But not tonight.  Next up, Montezuma Castle and Well.  Till then, y'all stay well and travel safe!